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What Is a Sink Mark in Injection Molding? Causes, Fixes, and Prevention

Your first sample parts just came back. They look right until you tilt one toward the light. Then you see it: a shallow dent sitting right over a rib.

Nothing is broken. But the part doesn’t look finished. Now you’re wondering who’s at fault: your design, the mold, or the press.

That dent is a sink mark, and its causes can be fixed. Sink is one of the things we look for during mold sampling and testing. At T1, the first-shot stage, we run short fills, full shots, and packed parts. That shows where sink, flash, or warp appears.

In this guide, we explain what sink marks in injection molding are and why they form. You’ll also learn how to stop them before the mold is ever cut.

What Is a Sink Mark in Injection Molding?

A sink mark is a small dent or dip on the surface of a molded plastic part. It forms over thick areas, like where a rib or boss meets a wall. As the part cools, the outer skin hardens first. The thicker center keeps shrinking and pulls the surface inward.

Sink marks usually come from three places:

  • Design: walls that are too thick or uneven, or ribs and bosses that are too thick
  • Process: low pack or hold pressure, a short hold time, or a gate that freezes too early
  • Cooling and material: uneven mold cooling, or a resin that shrinks a lot

Many sink marks are only cosmetic. Deep ones can affect fit, flatness, and sealing.

What Causes Sink Marks in Injection Molding?

Sink starts with how plastic cools. Thick sections cool slower than thin ones. The outer skin sets first, and the core keeps shrinking after it. That shrinking core pulls the surface inward.

Standard injection molding references describe sink the same way: a local dent in thicker zones. How much a resin shrinks plays a part too. Our guide on the typical shrinkage rate in injection molding covers the basics.

CauseExampleWho fixes it
DesignThick or uneven walls; ribs and bosses that are too thickPart designer, ideally during DFM review
ProcessLow pack or hold pressure; short hold time; gate freezes too earlyMolder, on the press
CoolingUneven mold cooling; areas of the mold that run hotterMolder and toolmaker
MaterialA resin that shrinks a lotDesigner and molder, when choosing the resin

Design. A thick wall or an oversized rib holds more hot plastic. That extra plastic keeps shrinking after the thinner areas have set.

Process. Pack and hold pressure push more plastic into the mold as the part shrinks. If that pressure is too low or ends too soon, thick areas come up short. The same thing happens when the gate freezes before those areas are packed.

Cooling. Mold cooling plays a role too. If one area of the mold runs hotter, the plastic there cools slower and sinks more.

Material. Semi-crystalline resins, like nylon and polypropylene, shrink more than amorphous resins like ABS. That makes them more prone to sink.

Where Do Sink Marks Show Up on a Part?

Now that you know why sink forms, the next question is where to look for it on your part. Sink lands over the thickest spots. Light hitting the surface at an angle shows shallow sink better than light shining straight on. Check these areas first:

  • Opposite ribs: sink often shows as a line, or as a grid where ribs cross.
  • Over bosses: sink often looks like a ring or a donut shape.
  • Thick corners and junctions: where walls meet, plastic piles up and shrinks more.
  • Far from the gate: packing pressure reaches these areas last, so they come up short more often.

Watch whether the sink moves. Say it shows up in the same spot every time, and more hold pressure barely helps. Then the cause is likely the mold cooling or the part design.

Sink Marks vs. Voids vs. Warping

Sink often gets confused with two other defects that share the same root cause. Knowing which one you have keeps you from chasing the wrong fix.

DefectWhat it looks likeWhereRoot cause
Sink markA shallow dent on the surfaceOver thick areas, like ribs and bossesThe core shrinks and pulls the skin inward
VoidA hidden bubble inside the partInside thick sectionsThe skin stays rigid, and the core shrinks away from it
WarpingThe part bends or twists out of shapeAcross a large area or the whole partDifferent areas shrink at different rates

All three start with uneven shrinkage. That’s why the fixes overlap. More even walls help with all three.

A void can hide behind a clean surface. Suspect one if your part looks fine but seems weaker than it should. Cutting a part open or scanning it with X-ray CT will show it.

For a wider look at other problems, see our guide to the most common plastic molding defects.

How to Prevent Sink Marks Through Part Design

The best time to stop sink is in your CAD model, before any steel is cut. Run your part against this checklist:

  • Keep walls even. Hold wall thickness as steady as you can. Where it has to change, taper it instead of stepping it.
  • Keep ribs thinner than the wall. A general guideline is about 40–60% of the wall they attach to. Some guides go as low as about one-third for high-shrink resins like nylon.
  • Core out bosses and thick areas. Keep boss walls at or below about 60% of the main wall.
  • Match your corner radii. Make the inside radius at least half the wall thickness. Then make the outside radius equal to the inside radius plus the wall. That keeps the wall even through the corner.
  • Use texture on show faces. A matte texture can hide faint sink on cosmetic surfaces.

Here’s how the rib guideline works on a real wall. On a 0.100-inch wall, ribs at 40–60% come out to 0.040–0.060 inches thick.

For more on getting your part ready, see our guide on design considerations before you send your part to a molder.

How Molders Fix Sink Marks on the Press

Design is the best place to stop sink. But if the mold is already built, there’s still a lot a molder can do. These fixes run roughly from quickest to most involved:

  1. Raise pack and hold pressure. More pressure pushes more plastic into thick areas as they shrink.
  2. Extend hold time. Holding longer keeps feeding plastic until the gate seals.
  3. Balance mold cooling. Checking the cooling lines and the mold temperature helps the part cool more evenly.
  4. Enlarge or move the gate. A bigger gate, or one closer to thick areas, keeps packing pressure on them longer. This takes mold work, so it usually comes last.

Sometimes sink stays in the same spot even after hold pressure goes up. In that case, check the cooling system before you keep adjusting machine settings.

Process changes also have limits. They can reduce sink caused by the design, but they can’t fully remove it. If a wall is too thick, the real fix lives in the part design.

Are Sink Marks a Big Deal? Cosmetic vs. Functional

It depends on where the sink is and what your part has to do. Some sink only affects looks. Other sink affects how the part works.

Cosmetic sinkFunctional sink
Shows on surfaces people seeAffects how the part performs
Matters on consumer housings and visible panelsMatters on flat faces, sealing surfaces, and mating parts
A matte texture can sometimes hide itIt can weaken a gasket seal, shift mounting holes, or loosen a snap fit

Either way, timing matters. A change on paper is cheap. A change after the steel is cut is not.

Before tooling starts, agree on a cosmetic standard with your molder. Decide which faces are A-side, the ones that must look clean. Then everyone knows where sink matters most.

Getting Sink-Free Parts From a North Logan Molder

Not sure if your ribs or bosses are too thick? Send us your CAD instead!

A DFM review before tooling is the best place to catch sink. At Freeform Polymers, our design for manufacturability review happens before any steel is cut. We look at:

  • Wall thickness
  • Draft
  • Rib ratios
  • Gate location

Rib and wall geometry is one of the first things we check. That way, sink gets caught on paper instead of in steel.

We’re an ISO 9001:2015 certified shop. Design, mold work, and production all happen under one roof. When a part shows sink, our tool room is down the hall, not across an ocean.

We work with customers across Utah and beyond.. So when you’re ready, contact us or call us at (435) 774-9090 to get things started!